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When it comes to the care of the orchid flower, the grower's task is no easy one.
It is to set in motion the complicated growth processes of the orchid flower, and, through maintenance of proper balance, insure continuation of that process.
Using the energy provided by light, the green leaf chlorophyll transforms the carbon dioxide from the air and the mineral salts from moisture into sugar and other carbohydrates.
These energy carbohydrates are stored until needed either for rebuilding plant tissue or for flowering. The pseudobulbs of some types, the large leathery leaves of others, and the slender grass-like leaves of orchids lacking pseudobulbs are the storage reservoirs.
The cycle will continue only if the grower devotes the utmost attention to the special requirements of the orchid. The reward for his devotion comes when the brilliant bloom and beauty of the tropics is reproduced in the greenhouse.
No hard and fast rules can be set down for the beginner to follow when it comes to the care of the orchid flower. It has been said that each grower in his own greenhouse, within limitations established by the plants, is a law unto him¬self. The amount of each element in the light-heat-moisture-air formula will vary according to season, experience, and variety. One of the things that make the growing of orchids unique and stimulating is the spirited controversy that arises over every aspect of culture.
When it comes to the care of the orchid flower, one of the many points on which there is no incontroversial procedure is the matter of how much light should be admitted. It must be decided whether to grow the plants 'soft' or 'hard,' to use the parlance of experienced growers.
The amateur must make his own choice when it comes to orchid flower care. To grow 'soft' means to shade the plants from the sun so that the leaves remain a beautiful dark green.
There can be no doubt that this method produces the most beautiful plants, but the quality of bloom is a question that cannot be answered so definitely. In 'soft' conditions care must be exercised not to shade to the point where flower growth will be hindered.
To grow 'hard' means to allow so much light that the leaves have decided overtones of yellow. This method, while marring the appearance of the plant, is said by its proponents to give increased bloom.
Too much light must be avoided, since it will burn the plant and growth will be interrupted. Dry, yellow flower sheaths will at times result from such sunburn, and incipient buds will become steamy and subject to destruction by wet rot. Cutting off the very top of such a sheath with a sharp knife will allow air to reach the bud and may save it.
The claim that growing orchids 'hard' increases flower growth appears logical if the conditions under which orchids grow in their natural state are considered: the natural environment is 'hard.'
It must be remembered, however, that nature controls sunlight in a way difficult to approximate in the greenhouse.
Even in those areas where certain varieties grow in so-called 'full sun/ it will be found that drifting clouds give a protection that is absent under intensely directed light in the greenhouse.
Once the amateur has made the choice between 'soft' and 'hard' methods, the subsequent treatment must be consistent. If much sun is provided, more moisture and air will be required.
If the plants are grown with minimum sun they will require less moisture, but an increase in ventilation may be needed to keep the air sweet.
Orchids are very susceptible to shock of any kind, and they take considerable time to recover—if they ever do. This danger must be borne in mind regarding sunburn, chilling, or energy deficit. There is the further difficulty of each species' having its own light requirements.
Quick reference to conditions in the native homes of the species that the amateur is likely to acquire will illustrate the point. Cattleyas, native to Central and South America, are found hanging on trees in the tropical rain forests. The burning sun of midday is usually kept off the plant by foliage directly overhead.
The grower, guided by this knowledge, lets Cattleyas be exposed to the sun, but provides shade in summer during the warmest part of the day, for sunburn must be avoided. The increased exposure to sun necessitates a corresponding increase in humidity to prevent the pseudobulbs from shriveling.
These are just some essential tips of the care of the orchid flower.
write on http://www.how-to-grow-orchid.com/care-of-the-orchid-flower.htm
Showing posts with label How to grow. Show all posts
Showing posts with label How to grow. Show all posts
A quaestion for highlander orchid
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Orchid height as other species of orchids need humidity and low light intensity. Excess light will damage the leaves and remove the possibility of new buds. When this was brought to anggrekspecies lower place can mean orchids can survive some serious time and live longer maintained.
Some hobbyists have a lot to try and just miserable when they crushed orchidGlass as a material that produces the evaporation of moisture or may try to reduce the intensity of the light placement in the house orchids can be at all times tried to bring it out to give the required effect photosintesis orchid leaves. This way depends on the humidity and the intensity of the sun where you live.
water circulation under glass or behind glass humidity levels set raising the plants. Waterfalls that wash the glass will be more spread gets orchid plants. If plants are placed on pages with a net may be a leaf with a variety of colors from brown to green was not fresh cut orchid leaves the same color as this orchid be bought fresh. This is useful to grow new shoots. Changing direction is needed for potted orchids refresher whole.
Suggestions and questions from a friend just to try
Orchid height as other species of orchids need humidity and low light intensity. Excess light will damage the leaves and remove the possibility of new buds. When this was brought to anggrekspecies lower place can mean orchids can survive some serious time and live longer maintained.
Some hobbyists have a lot to try and just miserable when they crushed orchidGlass as a material that produces the evaporation of moisture or may try to reduce the intensity of the light placement in the house orchids can be at all times tried to bring it out to give the required effect photosintesis orchid leaves. This way depends on the humidity and the intensity of the sun where you live.
water circulation under glass or behind glass humidity levels set raising the plants. Waterfalls that wash the glass will be more spread gets orchid plants. If plants are placed on pages with a net may be a leaf with a variety of colors from brown to green was not fresh cut orchid leaves the same color as this orchid be bought fresh. This is useful to grow new shoots. Changing direction is needed for potted orchids refresher whole.
Suggestions and questions from a friend just to try
Month Orchid Growing Healthy
The beauty of orchids in it no doubt. Thanks to its beauty, the butterfly orchid incarnated as a prima donna nickname orchid business in Indonesia. But what would happen if these orchids will not bloom or only bloom once, and after that "cranky" is no longer flowering. Feelings of anger and disappointment will ampur mixed together.
Another problem arises, when no flowers, orchids months we do not radiate beauty as expected. His condition seemed quite fresh and healthy at the roots, stems, leaves or flowers. All that comes from the way a less appropriate treatment.
"What about caring for orchids in the same way we take care of Dendrobium?." There are some things we need to know that plants need to grow fresh and healthy.
As plants epiphytes, orchids months of his life in the wild is always hampered by the branch or branches. "Orchid species only the intensity of the sun takes approximately 20 to 50 percent." Excess light will damage the plants orchids
. Symptoms of burning will be seen mainly in the leaves exposed to direct sunlight. Symptoms are usually marked with reddish brown liquid on the surface of the leaf.
less light, the influence on the growth of orchids in a not good. Leaves will wilt, yellow, pale and fell. "To get the low light, shade nets paranet pairs,". Or, just stick to orchids on a large tree trunk and place it in the east. Good morning sun for growth.
Orchid has a relative humidity (humidity ratio) is high, ie 60 to 80 percent. But the beautiful flowering orchids are not like the air is too wet. If too humid air will trigger bud rot disease and leaf. Orchids grow well in temperate 13 degrees Celsius to 18 degrees Celsius at night and 18 degrees Celsius to 21 degrees Celsius (day).
Orchid just sucks the moisture not to inhale water to maintain soil moisture using a natural way with the surrounding area membahasi
Orchid month will grow best when water needs provided for. The frequency of watering and the amount given depends on the type and size of plant size and environmental conditions, ". Plants that are actively growing obviously need more water than they already flowering orchids.
The water should contain minerals, pH neutral and is available throughout the year. In addition to regulating the process of photosynthesis, water can also regulate the temperature conditions.
Usually watering at least made orchid months twice a day. Once dry, the frequency of three times plus. Ideally,watering done in the morning around 09.00 and 07:00 until 16:00-18:00 (afternoon).
Problem watering right, now see the rules in the cultivation of orchids. There are many ways cultivate orchids. Fertilization is now mostly done through the leaves,
Because the leaves can absorb about 90% of the fertilizer, the roots absorb only 10%. In addition, the nutrients in the manure will be faster through the network to leave the body through a vein or cuticle.
NPK fertilization using nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P) and potassium (K). With the concentration of N of about 60%. Stepping young age, given a fertilizer plant with a concentration of N: P: K is comparable to 30 percent.
Already flowering period, the element P dominance changed to 60%.
Perform replacement planting media on a regular basis to maintain growth and optimum flowering orchids month. Also useful eliminate ants gnawing pests tunas.Untuk accelerate flowering orchids can be done in various ways. Name the day of treatment, low temperature, giving substance to grow and control the light intensity settings are most important.
Another problem arises, when no flowers, orchids months we do not radiate beauty as expected. His condition seemed quite fresh and healthy at the roots, stems, leaves or flowers. All that comes from the way a less appropriate treatment.
"What about caring for orchids in the same way we take care of Dendrobium?." There are some things we need to know that plants need to grow fresh and healthy.
As plants epiphytes, orchids months of his life in the wild is always hampered by the branch or branches. "Orchid species only the intensity of the sun takes approximately 20 to 50 percent." Excess light will damage the plants orchids
. Symptoms of burning will be seen mainly in the leaves exposed to direct sunlight. Symptoms are usually marked with reddish brown liquid on the surface of the leaf.
less light, the influence on the growth of orchids in a not good. Leaves will wilt, yellow, pale and fell. "To get the low light, shade nets paranet pairs,". Or, just stick to orchids on a large tree trunk and place it in the east. Good morning sun for growth.
Orchid has a relative humidity (humidity ratio) is high, ie 60 to 80 percent. But the beautiful flowering orchids are not like the air is too wet. If too humid air will trigger bud rot disease and leaf. Orchids grow well in temperate 13 degrees Celsius to 18 degrees Celsius at night and 18 degrees Celsius to 21 degrees Celsius (day).
Orchid just sucks the moisture not to inhale water to maintain soil moisture using a natural way with the surrounding area membahasi
Orchid month will grow best when water needs provided for. The frequency of watering and the amount given depends on the type and size of plant size and environmental conditions, ". Plants that are actively growing obviously need more water than they already flowering orchids.
The water should contain minerals, pH neutral and is available throughout the year. In addition to regulating the process of photosynthesis, water can also regulate the temperature conditions.
Usually watering at least made orchid months twice a day. Once dry, the frequency of three times plus. Ideally,watering done in the morning around 09.00 and 07:00 until 16:00-18:00 (afternoon).
Problem watering right, now see the rules in the cultivation of orchids. There are many ways cultivate orchids. Fertilization is now mostly done through the leaves,
Because the leaves can absorb about 90% of the fertilizer, the roots absorb only 10%. In addition, the nutrients in the manure will be faster through the network to leave the body through a vein or cuticle.
NPK fertilization using nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P) and potassium (K). With the concentration of N of about 60%. Stepping young age, given a fertilizer plant with a concentration of N: P: K is comparable to 30 percent.
Already flowering period, the element P dominance changed to 60%.
Perform replacement planting media on a regular basis to maintain growth and optimum flowering orchids month. Also useful eliminate ants gnawing pests tunas.Untuk accelerate flowering orchids can be done in various ways. Name the day of treatment, low temperature, giving substance to grow and control the light intensity settings are most important.
Orchid Growing Instructions
Orchid Image : A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z
HOME
The beauty of the orchid's line and color is known to all who bask in the offerings of the florist's window, but the breathless suspense and expectation that attend the unfolding of the mysterious growth of the orchid plant are known to the grower alone.
The appearance of each new growth and root is cause for rejoicing; the slimy mark of a snail or the cottony warning of the presence of scale is cause for distress.
The habits and idiosyncrasies of every species and plant are subject to absorbed study.
Different methods of growing and the relative merits of hybrids and species are endlessly discussed among fellow growers.
The orchid grower checks his mundane worries at the door of the greenhouse and enters a world that offers surcease even to the heart heavily burdened with sorrow and loss.
However, when the beginner, eager but ignorant, seeks published information on the growing of orchids, he may be discouraged by the dearth of information.
Where growers of garden-variety flowers find an almost bewildering wealth of literature, the would-be orchid grower bumps up against what seems to be a wall of secrecy.
This wall once was impregnable—each orchid hunter, grower, and hybridizer jealously guarded finds from curious and covetous eyes—but today there is an organized effort to popularize the growing of orchids by dispersing information through amateur groups and bulletins.
If the amateur will play fair with the commercial grower, he can obtain much valuable information even from him.
The amateur need only remember the important fact that to the professional the sale of orchids is a means of making a living, while to the amateur it is a means of securing pleasure and perhaps pin-money.
There is now no deliberate conspiracy to conceal information about orchid growing, but there is still too little material available for the amateur.
Many fine orchid books, first printed in expensive limited editions, have been long out of print, and others, published abroad, have not been translated. In the following pages we shall contribute our small share to building the foundation of a more general interest in and understanding of orchid culture.
Beginning with a glimpse into the life secrets of the orchid and continuing through to the rather specialized knowledge required for growing orchids from seed, the aim of the book is to make a fascinating and worth-while hobby available to thousands.
Once the way has been opened, the amateur will find many adventurous and rewarding by-paths to explore on his own.
Now, if your looking for orchid growing instructions, you must remember that there are a lot of different species of orchids and what works for one will not work for another.
There are just too many factors involved in growing orchids. Light, climate, housing, feed, and a whack of others are specific for individual orchid species.
Here’s a hint in growing healthy orchids. Always find out the native land of the orchid and study the climate, light, and environment. From there, you should be able to get a head start on your orchid growing instructions.
This website will also contain a lot of useful information you need to grow your orchid. So, please feel free to roam around the website. I’m sure you will find a lot of useful information that has been tried and tested over time that will certainly help you with your orchid growing hobby.
write on http://www.how-to-grow-orchid.com/orchid-growing-instructions.htm
HOME
The beauty of the orchid's line and color is known to all who bask in the offerings of the florist's window, but the breathless suspense and expectation that attend the unfolding of the mysterious growth of the orchid plant are known to the grower alone.
The appearance of each new growth and root is cause for rejoicing; the slimy mark of a snail or the cottony warning of the presence of scale is cause for distress.
The habits and idiosyncrasies of every species and plant are subject to absorbed study.
Different methods of growing and the relative merits of hybrids and species are endlessly discussed among fellow growers.
The orchid grower checks his mundane worries at the door of the greenhouse and enters a world that offers surcease even to the heart heavily burdened with sorrow and loss.
However, when the beginner, eager but ignorant, seeks published information on the growing of orchids, he may be discouraged by the dearth of information.
Where growers of garden-variety flowers find an almost bewildering wealth of literature, the would-be orchid grower bumps up against what seems to be a wall of secrecy.
This wall once was impregnable—each orchid hunter, grower, and hybridizer jealously guarded finds from curious and covetous eyes—but today there is an organized effort to popularize the growing of orchids by dispersing information through amateur groups and bulletins.
If the amateur will play fair with the commercial grower, he can obtain much valuable information even from him.
The amateur need only remember the important fact that to the professional the sale of orchids is a means of making a living, while to the amateur it is a means of securing pleasure and perhaps pin-money.
There is now no deliberate conspiracy to conceal information about orchid growing, but there is still too little material available for the amateur.
Many fine orchid books, first printed in expensive limited editions, have been long out of print, and others, published abroad, have not been translated. In the following pages we shall contribute our small share to building the foundation of a more general interest in and understanding of orchid culture.
Beginning with a glimpse into the life secrets of the orchid and continuing through to the rather specialized knowledge required for growing orchids from seed, the aim of the book is to make a fascinating and worth-while hobby available to thousands.
Once the way has been opened, the amateur will find many adventurous and rewarding by-paths to explore on his own.
Now, if your looking for orchid growing instructions, you must remember that there are a lot of different species of orchids and what works for one will not work for another.
There are just too many factors involved in growing orchids. Light, climate, housing, feed, and a whack of others are specific for individual orchid species.
Here’s a hint in growing healthy orchids. Always find out the native land of the orchid and study the climate, light, and environment. From there, you should be able to get a head start on your orchid growing instructions.
This website will also contain a lot of useful information you need to grow your orchid. So, please feel free to roam around the website. I’m sure you will find a lot of useful information that has been tried and tested over time that will certainly help you with your orchid growing hobby.
write on http://www.how-to-grow-orchid.com/orchid-growing-instructions.htm
Growing Orchid For Beginner
Orchid Image : A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z
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When it comes to growing orchid for beginner, no hard and fast rules can be set down for the beginner to follow.
It has been said that each grower in her own greenhouse, within limitations established by the plants, is a law unto herself.
The amount of each element in the light-heat-moisture-air formula will vary according to season, experience, and variety.
One of the things that make the growing of orchids unique and stimulating is the spirited controversy that arises over every aspect of culture.
One of the many points on which there is no incontroversial procedure for growing orchid for beginner, is the matter of how much light should be admitted. It must be decided whether to grow the plants 'soft' or 'hard,' to use the parlance of experienced growers.
The amateur must make his own choice. When it comes to growing orchid for beginner, to grow 'soft' means to shade the plants from the sun so that the leaves remain a beautiful dark green.
There can be no doubt that this method produces the most beautiful plants, but the quality of bloom is a question that cannot be answered so definitely. In 'soft' conditions care must be exercised not to shade to the point where flower growth will be hindered.
When it comes to growing orchid for the beginner, to grow 'hard' means to allow so much light that the leaves have decided overtones of yellow. This method, while marring the appearance of the plant, is said by its proponents to give increased bloom.
Too much light must be avoided, since it will burn the plant and growth will be interrupted. Dry, yellow flower sheaths will at times result from such sunburn, and incipient buds will become steamy and subject to destruction by wet rot. Cutting off the very top of such a sheath with a sharp knife will allow air to reach the bud and may save it.
The claim that growing orchids 'hard' increases flower growth appears logical if the conditions under which orchids grow in their natural state are considered: the natural environment is 'hard.'
It must be remembered, however, that nature controls sunlight in a way difficult to approximate in the greenhouse. Even in those areas where certain varieties grow in so-called 'full sun/ it will be found that drifting clouds give a protection that is absent under intensely directed light in the greenhouse.
Once the orchid grower beginner has made the choice between 'soft' and 'hard' methods, the subsequent treatment must be consistent. If much sun is provided, more moisture and air will be required. If the plants are grown with minimum sun they will require less moisture, but an increase in ventilation may be needed to keep the air sweet.
Too great an increase in heat during the winter is a common error of orchid growers. Plants store up energy during the daylight hours and give off or transpire energy at night. Increase in night heat increases transpiration.
Shorter periods of daylight lessen the manufacture of energy. If the plant loses more energy at night than it is able to store during the day, obviously it will suffer. Orchids are very susceptible to shock of any kind, and they take considerable time to recover—if they ever do. This danger must be borne in mind regarding sunburn, chilling, or energy deficit.
There is the further difficulty of each species' having its own light requirements. Quick reference to conditions in the native homes of the species that the amateur is likely to acquire will illustrate the point. Cattleyas, native to Central and South America, are found hanging on trees in the tropical rain forests.
The burning sun of midday is usually kept off the plant by foliage directly overhead. The grower, guided by this knowledge, lets Cattleyas be exposed to the sun, but provides shade in summer during the warmest part of the day, for sunburn must be avoided.
The increased exposure to sun necessitates a corresponding increase in humidity to prevent the pseudobulbs from shriveling.
Laelias, showy natives of Mexico and Central America, are found growing on rocks in the open sun. They are closely related to Cattleyas, but require larger amounts of both light and air. The grower should find a place for them in the sun, right up under the glass. Sudden temperature changes should be avoided.
Among the sun-worshipers are the Vandas, natives of India, the Philippines, and some Pacific islands. They will not thrive without adequate sun, and they must have corresponding amounts of heat and water. Care must be exercised to keep water from remaining in the growing crown.
The evergreen Dendrobiums, native to the Indian Islands, and Oncidiums, from Central and South America, are also sun-worshipers. Phalaenopsis, the lovely white 'bride's orchids' from the Philippines and the Eastern Archipelago, respond well to sun, but must not be overexposed. A warm, moist atmosphere, with plenty of air, is best for this species. Zygopetalums, found in Brazil, Venezuela, and the Guianas, require moderate exposure to sun.
write on http://www.how-to-grow-orchid.com/growing-orchid-for-beginner.htm
HOME
When it comes to growing orchid for beginner, no hard and fast rules can be set down for the beginner to follow.
It has been said that each grower in her own greenhouse, within limitations established by the plants, is a law unto herself.
The amount of each element in the light-heat-moisture-air formula will vary according to season, experience, and variety.
One of the things that make the growing of orchids unique and stimulating is the spirited controversy that arises over every aspect of culture.
One of the many points on which there is no incontroversial procedure for growing orchid for beginner, is the matter of how much light should be admitted. It must be decided whether to grow the plants 'soft' or 'hard,' to use the parlance of experienced growers.
The amateur must make his own choice. When it comes to growing orchid for beginner, to grow 'soft' means to shade the plants from the sun so that the leaves remain a beautiful dark green.
There can be no doubt that this method produces the most beautiful plants, but the quality of bloom is a question that cannot be answered so definitely. In 'soft' conditions care must be exercised not to shade to the point where flower growth will be hindered.
When it comes to growing orchid for the beginner, to grow 'hard' means to allow so much light that the leaves have decided overtones of yellow. This method, while marring the appearance of the plant, is said by its proponents to give increased bloom.
Too much light must be avoided, since it will burn the plant and growth will be interrupted. Dry, yellow flower sheaths will at times result from such sunburn, and incipient buds will become steamy and subject to destruction by wet rot. Cutting off the very top of such a sheath with a sharp knife will allow air to reach the bud and may save it.
The claim that growing orchids 'hard' increases flower growth appears logical if the conditions under which orchids grow in their natural state are considered: the natural environment is 'hard.'
It must be remembered, however, that nature controls sunlight in a way difficult to approximate in the greenhouse. Even in those areas where certain varieties grow in so-called 'full sun/ it will be found that drifting clouds give a protection that is absent under intensely directed light in the greenhouse.
Once the orchid grower beginner has made the choice between 'soft' and 'hard' methods, the subsequent treatment must be consistent. If much sun is provided, more moisture and air will be required. If the plants are grown with minimum sun they will require less moisture, but an increase in ventilation may be needed to keep the air sweet.
Too great an increase in heat during the winter is a common error of orchid growers. Plants store up energy during the daylight hours and give off or transpire energy at night. Increase in night heat increases transpiration.
Shorter periods of daylight lessen the manufacture of energy. If the plant loses more energy at night than it is able to store during the day, obviously it will suffer. Orchids are very susceptible to shock of any kind, and they take considerable time to recover—if they ever do. This danger must be borne in mind regarding sunburn, chilling, or energy deficit.
There is the further difficulty of each species' having its own light requirements. Quick reference to conditions in the native homes of the species that the amateur is likely to acquire will illustrate the point. Cattleyas, native to Central and South America, are found hanging on trees in the tropical rain forests.
The burning sun of midday is usually kept off the plant by foliage directly overhead. The grower, guided by this knowledge, lets Cattleyas be exposed to the sun, but provides shade in summer during the warmest part of the day, for sunburn must be avoided.
The increased exposure to sun necessitates a corresponding increase in humidity to prevent the pseudobulbs from shriveling.
Laelias, showy natives of Mexico and Central America, are found growing on rocks in the open sun. They are closely related to Cattleyas, but require larger amounts of both light and air. The grower should find a place for them in the sun, right up under the glass. Sudden temperature changes should be avoided.
Among the sun-worshipers are the Vandas, natives of India, the Philippines, and some Pacific islands. They will not thrive without adequate sun, and they must have corresponding amounts of heat and water. Care must be exercised to keep water from remaining in the growing crown.
The evergreen Dendrobiums, native to the Indian Islands, and Oncidiums, from Central and South America, are also sun-worshipers. Phalaenopsis, the lovely white 'bride's orchids' from the Philippines and the Eastern Archipelago, respond well to sun, but must not be overexposed. A warm, moist atmosphere, with plenty of air, is best for this species. Zygopetalums, found in Brazil, Venezuela, and the Guianas, require moderate exposure to sun.
write on http://www.how-to-grow-orchid.com/growing-orchid-for-beginner.htm
Orchid Plant Diseases
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Some of the more common orchid plant diseases include varying degrees of "rot". There are different types and include Bacterial Leaf Rot, Bacterial Root Rot and Crown Rot.
Leaf rot, is another one of orchid plant diseases which appears as a slight discoloration of the leaf. It is in noted as a spot on the leaf. It is not that the entire leaf is a lighter or darker green color. If you catch it late you will note that the spot has gotten larger and has irregular borders. The infected part eventually turns gray. and becomes soft in texture. The remedy is to cut the leaf back to the healthy tissue using generally a clean and if possible a sterile instrument or blade. I like to use a new single edge razor blade and discard the razor blade after it has been in contact with the diseased area. Treat the good edge of the leaf with a bactericidal solution. Or it is possible to sprinkle the spice cinnamon. Then make sure the plant is in a place of good good air circulation.
Another orchid plant disease is Crown Rot which is the same as leaf rot but in a larger area and hasgreater ramification. It takes the uppermost leaf or leaves thus the name "crown". The remedy is to remove the uppermost leaf or leaves that will be soft usually at the attachment to the plant stem. It is important to remove all the diseased area including digging into the crown of the plant with a sterile knife or blade edge. Once again treat the open area with bacteriocidal solution. Or again I like to sprinkle the area with cinnamon.
Bacterial Root Rot shows itself as some shriveling of the lower leaves. This is a common orchid plant disease. Over watering can cause this problem. The treatment here is different and includes re-potting. When you take the plant out of the pot you will notice that the roots are dark and soft. The remedy includes removing the bad roots and the media around them. Because they are soft when you pull the roots to remove they will break off easily. Use a smaller pot this time and re-plant. Do not water for several days and then water less frequently than you have.
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Leaf Burn occurs when the plant is over exposed to sunlight. You will
Leaf Burn occurs when the plant is over exposed to sunlight. You will see some gray-white areas on the leaf. These will usually get better but just keep an eye on it for these spots may get infected.
Bud Blast is the withering and falling off of buds. This can occur either with the bud in the sheath or when they emerge as buds. The cause is usually some sudden drastic changes that the plant undergoes. This may be from a sudden temperature change or light change. It may be also caused by allowing the plant to dry out excessively. It is important to not put plants in front of the heater vents when we bring them into our houses.
Black Spot / Black Leaf. This is common in both the Paphiopedilum and the Oncidium plants. This is caused by either too much fertilizer or not enough fresh water. They are unsightly spots on the leaf which as the name implies is black in color. It may be on the body of the leaf or on the tip of the leaf. Also, check on the air circulation in this area of the orchid plant.
These tend to be the the most common orchid plant diseases. Be aware of them and you probably won't get them!
http://www.orchids-plus-more.com/orchid-plant-diseases.html
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Some of the more common orchid plant diseases include varying degrees of "rot". There are different types and include Bacterial Leaf Rot, Bacterial Root Rot and Crown Rot.
Leaf rot, is another one of orchid plant diseases which appears as a slight discoloration of the leaf. It is in noted as a spot on the leaf. It is not that the entire leaf is a lighter or darker green color. If you catch it late you will note that the spot has gotten larger and has irregular borders. The infected part eventually turns gray. and becomes soft in texture. The remedy is to cut the leaf back to the healthy tissue using generally a clean and if possible a sterile instrument or blade. I like to use a new single edge razor blade and discard the razor blade after it has been in contact with the diseased area. Treat the good edge of the leaf with a bactericidal solution. Or it is possible to sprinkle the spice cinnamon. Then make sure the plant is in a place of good good air circulation.
Another orchid plant disease is Crown Rot which is the same as leaf rot but in a larger area and hasgreater ramification. It takes the uppermost leaf or leaves thus the name "crown". The remedy is to remove the uppermost leaf or leaves that will be soft usually at the attachment to the plant stem. It is important to remove all the diseased area including digging into the crown of the plant with a sterile knife or blade edge. Once again treat the open area with bacteriocidal solution. Or again I like to sprinkle the area with cinnamon.
Bacterial Root Rot shows itself as some shriveling of the lower leaves. This is a common orchid plant disease. Over watering can cause this problem. The treatment here is different and includes re-potting. When you take the plant out of the pot you will notice that the roots are dark and soft. The remedy includes removing the bad roots and the media around them. Because they are soft when you pull the roots to remove they will break off easily. Use a smaller pot this time and re-plant. Do not water for several days and then water less frequently than you have.
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Leaf Burn occurs when the plant is over exposed to sunlight. You will
Leaf Burn occurs when the plant is over exposed to sunlight. You will see some gray-white areas on the leaf. These will usually get better but just keep an eye on it for these spots may get infected.
Bud Blast is the withering and falling off of buds. This can occur either with the bud in the sheath or when they emerge as buds. The cause is usually some sudden drastic changes that the plant undergoes. This may be from a sudden temperature change or light change. It may be also caused by allowing the plant to dry out excessively. It is important to not put plants in front of the heater vents when we bring them into our houses.
Black Spot / Black Leaf. This is common in both the Paphiopedilum and the Oncidium plants. This is caused by either too much fertilizer or not enough fresh water. They are unsightly spots on the leaf which as the name implies is black in color. It may be on the body of the leaf or on the tip of the leaf. Also, check on the air circulation in this area of the orchid plant.
These tend to be the the most common orchid plant diseases. Be aware of them and you probably won't get them!
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Growing Orchids In Greenhouses
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Will controling the climate in a greenhouses help with growing orchids? Is it easier or harder to use a greenhouse? I thought that orchids were difficult?
All these are great questions and relate to using greenhouses as well. You will see an increasing number of folks using greenhouses very successfully with orchids and lots of other plants.
To answer the question simply, So the answer is "Yes you can" use greenhouses for orchids but there are a few stipulations. They will usually do very well and may even bloom more frequently for you.
Now to answer some of the questions raised earlier. An green house can be a very good place to grow you favorite plants including orchids. Depending on the style both the light and temperature can be maintained properly.
Some orchids will do very well in hot, tropical climates, like Vandas. Others like the see a temperature decrease in the night time like the Phalaenopsis orchids.
Your greenhouse will be a special place for you to come and enjoy your hobby. It will be your "sanctuary".
Before you purchase a greenhouse be sure you fully understand what will be necessary to help control both the temperature and the light. For example, Phalaenopsis orchids like bright light but not direct sunlight. They do like a West setting and late day sun. The Cattleya orchids do well in sunlight.
Greenhouses vary both in size, shape and cost. Some use wood as the frame, others use aluminum. It seems that aluminum stands up better to the whims of nature than does wood. It also looks better for a longer period of time.
If you live in the Northern part of the US you definitely will need a heat source for your plants. This could be gas fired small furnaces or electric heat. Remember, when you turn the heat on humidity goes down.Some greenhouses will need to have the humidity controled.
Good ventilation and humidity are very important. Most plants including growing orchids depend on good air circulation. A fan can do this very easily. Be sure to keep the fan clean to avoid the spread of disease from one plant to another.
Growing orchids in greenhouses will allow you to grow plants year round. You plant what you want, when you want to, and how you want. You can control the light, temperature, watering and humidity so you will have a healthy, viable greenhouse for your hobby.
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HOME
Will controling the climate in a greenhouses help with growing orchids? Is it easier or harder to use a greenhouse? I thought that orchids were difficult?
All these are great questions and relate to using greenhouses as well. You will see an increasing number of folks using greenhouses very successfully with orchids and lots of other plants.
To answer the question simply, So the answer is "Yes you can" use greenhouses for orchids but there are a few stipulations. They will usually do very well and may even bloom more frequently for you.
Now to answer some of the questions raised earlier. An green house can be a very good place to grow you favorite plants including orchids. Depending on the style both the light and temperature can be maintained properly.
Some orchids will do very well in hot, tropical climates, like Vandas. Others like the see a temperature decrease in the night time like the Phalaenopsis orchids.
Your greenhouse will be a special place for you to come and enjoy your hobby. It will be your "sanctuary".
Before you purchase a greenhouse be sure you fully understand what will be necessary to help control both the temperature and the light. For example, Phalaenopsis orchids like bright light but not direct sunlight. They do like a West setting and late day sun. The Cattleya orchids do well in sunlight.
Greenhouses vary both in size, shape and cost. Some use wood as the frame, others use aluminum. It seems that aluminum stands up better to the whims of nature than does wood. It also looks better for a longer period of time.
If you live in the Northern part of the US you definitely will need a heat source for your plants. This could be gas fired small furnaces or electric heat. Remember, when you turn the heat on humidity goes down.Some greenhouses will need to have the humidity controled.
Good ventilation and humidity are very important. Most plants including growing orchids depend on good air circulation. A fan can do this very easily. Be sure to keep the fan clean to avoid the spread of disease from one plant to another.
Growing orchids in greenhouses will allow you to grow plants year round. You plant what you want, when you want to, and how you want. You can control the light, temperature, watering and humidity so you will have a healthy, viable greenhouse for your hobby.
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